Hi Amelia,

Your plant is a Peace Lily or Spathyphylum (its scientific name). I assume the soil is very dry and that's why the plant is drooping so badly. Water it really well until water comes out the bottom drainage holes. Hopefully there are drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. It should perk up in a few hours. Your Peace Lily may end up with a few yellow leaves because it got so dry. On the bright side, Peace Lilies bloom more when they are stressed by lack of water.

Please go to the Browse section of the app and select Peace Lily to find all of the care instructions for this plant.

If the soil is very wet and the plant is drooping like it is then the plant has been severely over watered and the roots are dead. There would really be no way to save the plant. Let's hope the soil is dry!

good luck, Judy

Hi Rhonda,
Sorry to say cut foliage cannot help clean the air. Plants clean the air during photosynthesis.
In other words, when plants are making food by the process of photosynthesis, they are also cleaning the air by absorbing carbon dioxide and other pollutants.
Hope this information helps, Judy

______________________________________________

Hi Judy: My house umbrella plant is lovely. The only thing is that it is getting too big for my house. It has one stem but has branched out into two large stems, aprox 130 m across. There is another off shute at the base of middle stem, if I were to cut it back to that small stem, would the shock kill it?

Hi Joan,

Umbrella plants love to be cut back. They will start to quickly bush out. The shock will not harm the plant as long as enough leaves remain on the stems to produce sufficient food for the plant. If the stem is very thick you may have to seal it with a little plant stem sealant to prevent too much loss of sap. Judy

A few weeks later, I accidentally let the soil dry out. I watered it, but the plant never came back. I have two of them. I cut one back completely to see if I could regrow the leaves. The second one (photo), I left the leaves alone. I've tried putting them in direct sun, indirect sun, cool areas of the house..but nothing has helped.

I am unsure of what kind of plant this is. I thought maybe Baby Tears? I'm not sure if it is even an indoor plant or if it was just placed in the room for it's aesthetic. Help! Is it too late to save my plants?

Thank you,Tracey

Hi Tracey,

I'm sorry you're having problems with your plants. From the picture you sent it does look like a Baby's Tears. Sadly, interior designers sometimes use plants that look good in a spot but won't necessarily survive there. Here are some care instructions for a Baby's Tears. I hope they'll help you out. Be sure to cut off all the dead or dying leaves and stems. It may take a while for new growth to appear. If you can't save the plants, let me know what your lighting conditions are where the decorator wanted plants and perhaps I could suggest a few that might do well in that location.

Baby's Tears is a delicate looking plant that almost looks like a mat or carpet of tiny green leaves as it spreads over the sides of its pot. Baby ‘s Tears, which originally came from Corsica and Sardinia, have tiny round or bean- shaped leaves that grow on thin fragile stems. It can be used as a table plant or a small hanging plant. This very little plant requires a lot of attention.
Light: Baby's Tears like bright indirect light but no direct sun.

Water: Always keep the soil most but never soggy. If the soil stays too wet, the stems rot. If the soil stays too dry for a prolonged period, the plant dies.

Temperature: Normal household temperatures or even a little cooler are best; 60-75 degrees is ideal.

Humidity: High humidity and good air circulation encourages growth

Fertilizer: Fertilize every two weeks in the spring and summer when the plant is actively growing. Use a basic houseplant food at ½ strength.

Soil: Use a well-aerated quick draining potting soil that contains a good amount of peat moss.

Pruning: Trim a baby tears with a scissors to main its shape and fullness.

Pot: A Bay Tears grows best in a shallow pot.

Pests: Whitefly, scale, aphids can be a problem.

Propagation: Plant division and stem cuttings

I hope things will work out for you, Judy

______________________________________________ 

Hi David,
Your plant is a Goldfish Plant or Nematanthus which is its scientific name. The top of the leaf is a shiny green and the underside in many goldfish varieties is reddish. If you want it to bloom (the flowers look like miniature goldfish), put it in bright indirect light. I hope this helps.
Judy

Most of what I have is from cuttings that I rooted in water until tertiary roots formed. I repot every other year with miracle gro soil into similar sized hanging plastic planters. I am also frequently making cuttings and adding the newly rooted vines to the pot. I mist almost every day.
Kristy

Hi Kristy:
Well it certainly doesn't sound like it's a light problem. Are you fertilizing your pothos? How often and with what? What is the size of the leaves of the plants that you are taking cuttings from? Does that plant have small leaves also? Have you tried rooting your cuttings directly in soil rather than in water? Rooting in soil helps to develop a different type of root than rooting in water. Judy

Judy: I fertilize with miracle gro once a month in the summer, every other month the rest of the year.
I am taking cuttings from the same plant and planting the newly rooted cuttings with the original to keep it full.
I have not tried rooting in soil. How would I go about doing that? Just cut, dip in rooting powder and plant?
It also used to have white variegation on some of the vines but that has virtually disappeared. Kristy

Hi Kristy:
A pothos is a fast growing plant so you should be fertilizing every two weeks during the spring and summer and monthly in the fall and winter. That will definitely help the size of the leaves. From looking at your picture, I think you need to give your plant a haircut. Trim back those long vines (cut off 6-10 inches) and the plant will become much fuller.

When you dip the end of your cutting in rooting hormone be sure to shake off any excess. Use clippings about 4"in length with at least three leaves on it. As far as the variegation, did you take cuttings from the variegated part of the plant or the green part? That will determine the color of the new leaves. Are you sure your plant is a pothos and not a marble queen? A pothos has yellow variegation and a marble queen has white variegation. Judy

Thanks Judy: I will start feeding it more often. I gave it the trim and have setup the trimmings to root in soil this time.
I took cuttings from both a green pothos and a marble queen. I started out with one of each as a teenager, but as they got spindly & some vines fell victim to my initial lack of skills I combined them into one planter. I thought they are all just different color variations of the same plant. I appreciate your assistance. I'll let you know when things turn around for my plant. Kristy

Hi John,
Your plant is a Pencil Cactus (Euphorbia tirucalli) and it's really a succulent rather than a cactus. Here is some information to help you care for it.

Light: A Pencil Cactus likes as much bright light as you can provide.
Water: Water when the soil dries out completely. In the cool winter months this may be only once a month. Be very careful not to over water!
Temperature: When actively growing in the spring and summer, a Pencil Cactus likes temperatures between 65-80 degrees. During the winter it prefers cooler temperatures around 55-65 degrees.
Soil: Use a quick draining succulent potting soil.
Fertilizer: Feed a Pencil Cactus during the spring and summer with a basic houseplant food at 1/4 the recommended strength.
Propagation: A Pencil Cactus is propagated by stem cuttings.
Have fun with you new plant.

Judy

______________________________________________

Hi Judy,
My wife and I are concerned about our houseplant. This morning we noticed very small red balls on the undersides of some of the leaves. I've tried to take pictures that show these things clearly, but it is hard to capture it well. We would appreciate any advice that you could give us.
Thanks. Mark

Hi Mark,
Your plant, an Arboricola or Hawaiian Schefflera as it is commonly called, has Scale. By the way, that was a great picture you sent. Scale is a common pest that often attacks indoor houseplants. Scale sucks the sap out of the plant, leaving leaves discolored and stunted in size. As the infestation worsens, the scale leaves behind a sticky substance on the leaves called honeydew. A black fungus called sooty mold often grows on the honeydew. The honeydew can drip onto furniture and floors if your not careful.
Scale insects are not easy to control. Here is my favorite method.

Scrape off the small red balls (the scale) with a children's toothbrush and then spray the plant with alcohol. Repeat this treatment if the scale reappears. Should the scale keep returning, spray the plant with fine petroleum oil. This can usually be found at large nurseries. Please let me know if you need any more help with your plants.Judy

 ______________________________________________

sent June 17th, 2010
Judy:
I received this plant as a gift from someone who thought it was a "lipstick" plant. When I look up Aeschynanthus it just isn't the same. Aeschynanthus looks like it has fleshy thick leaves and it's red blooms are smooth, thin, long, and trumpet-like. The plant I have is a climber/trailer, it has jagged-edge, thin leaves and a flower that is red but very furry and cylindrical. I hope the pictures can help you, I've never see this plant before. I hope you can identify this for me.
Thank you, Trish

Hi Trish,

The plant you received is a Chenille Plant ( Acalypha hispida). Here are a few simple care instructions.
1. Plenty of sunshine.
2. Keep the soil moist but never soggy. If the soil gets totally dry, the flowers quickly fade.
3. Fertilize every two weeks when the plant is actively growing usually in the spring and summer.
The important thing to remember is that the flowers are poisonous so try to hang the plant where children and pets cannot reach the flowers. If flowers fall off, pick them up quickly.
Judy

 ______________________________________________

Hi Judy
I am not sure what kind of palm this is. It was given to me by a friend when she moved. She did not know the name of it either, I have had it for about a month, and just in the pass couple of weeks I have seem this white stuff on the stem, could you please tell what the name of the is,and what to do about the white stuff.
Thanks, Gwyn

Hi Gwyn,

Your friend gave you a Bamboo Palm. You can look up the care instructions for it in the Browse and Identify Section of the website. From the picture, it appears that your plant has a bad case of mealy bugs. Use a paper towel and wipe off as much of the "white stuff" the mealy bugs leave behind as possible. Then spray the trunk and soil with a full strength "Green Solution"; avoid spraying the fronds or leaves of the plant. Gently remove some of the bamboo on the trunk so you can reach the bugs hiding under it. The Green Solution is a mixture made up of alcohol ( the kind you can purchase at a pharmacy for a dollar or two), a few drops of mineral oil, and a few squirts of a liquid biodegradable soap. Next spray the entire plant, leaves included, with Safer Insecticidal Soap. You can purchase this in the nursery or garden department of such stores as Home Depot or Lowes. You'll have to repeat this treatment every ten days for at least a month. Once mealy bugs appear on a plant, it is very hard to permanently get rid of them. You'll have to inspect your bamboo palm every time you water.

Please let me know if I can help with any other plant questions.

Judy

I have attached a photo of the offending area. Any help you can give to this "brown thumb" would be much appreciated.

Jessie

Hi Jessie,

I think you are probably watering your bromeliad too much and it has developed a fungal infection. Cut off all of the diseased areas. Keep the leaves totally dry. Never water in the center cup of your bromeliad; only water the soil, sparingly. Try to provide good air circulation around the plant. You can even try putting a little fan near it. Be sure to clean your scissors well after trimming your bromeliad so you don't spread the disease to any of your other plants. Please let me know if I can help with any other plant questions.

Judy

Judy: What is this tree
It is over 8 feet tall and just these few leaves on top
Would appreciate the help
Thank you
Karen B

Hi Karen,
Your plant looks like a Schefflera Amate. You can find care instructions for a Scchefflera in the Browse section on our website. The only way to get the plant bushy again is to cut the bare stems back several feet. New growth will appear from wherever you cut the stems. This does force you to cut off the few leaves you have left. Some important questions are why did all the bottom leaves drop off ? Were they green or yellow when they fell off? It's probably a watering or lighting problem of some sort. Also the yellow spots on the leaves in the picture indicate that the Schefflera has spider mites. Spray with the "green solution." This is a mixture 1/2 water, 1/2 straight medicinal alcohol, a few drops of biodegradable liquid soap, and a few drops of mineral oil.
Good luck, Judy

Hi Victoria,
A Chinese Evergreen is not known for its flowers. They are pretty inconsequential. In fact when flowers do appear I always suggest that they be immediately removed so the plant can put its energy into producing its beautiful leaves. If the flowers remain on the plant, new leaves are often smaller and not as colorful. I'd cut off all of the unopened flowers as soon as you see them.

There are so many reasons why a Boston Fern gets brown leaves so I'll just list some and wait to hear back from you if any apply to your particular plant.
1. Ferns need high humidity. Avoid putting them near heaters or air conditioners. Dry air results in brown tips and yellowing fronds.
2. Ferns need very little fertilizer. Excess fertilizer puts too much salt in the soil and the fronds turn brown almost immediately. Fertilize monthly only when the fern is producing new leaves. Use a basic houseplant food at 1/4 the recommended strength. Be sure the soil is moist when you fertilize.
3. Ferns need to be moist but not too wet. Too much water causes root rot and fronds start to turn brown, crispy, and die back. Wait until the plant looks a little pale in color before you water.
4. Your Plant looks very green so I don't think its an under-watering problem.
5. Check and make sure the fern is not too root bound in a small pot. If the pot is all roots and very little soil, it's time to repot.

Hope this information helps, Judy

 Judy:
Thank you for your prompt response. I cut off all the flowers on the Evergreen.

I'm not sure about the fern. I live in Miami and it's hanging in my back patio without direct sunlight. I think it's humid enough. I've never fertilized it, so that's not it. I may be overwatering it--I water it whenever my near-by peace lily wilts--maybe every couple of days. I bought it in the fall, and it was looking beautiful until about 2 weeks ago. I will try to repot it one of these weekends. When I do, do I cut the roots and leave it in the same pot? Or do I go for a bigger pot without cutting the roots?
Victoria

Hi, Victoria:

I forgot to ask, are there any chemicals like fluoride or chlorine in your water? Also, are you, by chance, using water that passes through a softener?Ferns are usually watered only once a week. You should let the top 25-30% of the soil dry out and then water well until the water comes out the bottom drip holes. Are there drip holes in the fern's pot? Never let the fern sit in water. You may have been consistently over-watering for a while and damaged the roots. Before you water next, take the fern out of its pot and look at the soil. Be sure its dry at least a third of the way down.

Again, before you repot, gently take the fern out of its existing pot and be sure the roots have taken on the shape of the pot. If there is not a very extensive root system, don't put it into a larger pot.

Try to get as much of the dead foliage off of the plant. Once we find the cause, it may take a while for new fronds to start to grow, but I have seen worse looking ferns than yours look beautiful again within a few months. Judy

______________________________________________

Hi Pam,
It's definitely a fungus infection. You can tell by the milky halo around the spots. Those spots must dry out or they will continue to spread. I'd try a commercial fungicide and as much sun as possible. Don't leave it out in the rain or any place where the leaves can get wet.Prevention is always easier than treatment with this problem. Here are a few suggestion to stop the infection from getting worse:

1. Keep your cactus in full sun
2. The lower the humidity the better. Fungus love damp, overcast, humid, cool weather. (Where do you live?)
3. Provide good air circulation around the plant. You may even have to set up a little fan near it.
4. Use a a quick draining sandy soil that can completely dry out.
5. Never let water get on any part of the plant above the soil line.
6. You can try using a commercial fungicide but they are not always successful treating Black Spot.
7. Keep your cactus away from other plants so the Black Spot won't spread.
Good luck! Judy

Hi Kelly,

Sorry to hear you're having problems with your new plants. A Zebrina purple has the common name of Wandering Jew or Purple Heart Plant and its scientific name is Tradescantia zebrina. The Purple Waffle is a totally different plant with the scientific name Hemigraphis Exotica. It's a manmade hybrid plant. It's important that both plants be planted in pots that have drip holes in the bottom so excess water can drip out. Here are some care instructions for both.

Purple Waffle
Water: Water well until water comes out the bottom drip holes. Do not water again until the top two or three inches of soil have dried out.
Light: Very, very bright light (needs more light than a Wandering Jew)
Humidity: High humidity (needs more humidity than a Wandering Jew)
Soil: Use a rich peat based soil that drains quickly
Temperature: 65-85
Fertilize: Fertilize monthly with a basic houseplant food at 1/2 the recommended strength only when the plant is actively growing.

Wandering Jew (Zebrina):
Water: (same as Purple waffle) Water well until water comes out the bottom drip holes. Do not water again until the top two or three inches of soil have dried out.
Light: Bright indirect light
Humidity: Medium Humidity
Soil: Rich peat based organic soil that drains quickly
Temperature: 55-75 degrees
Fertilizer: Fertilize monthly with a basic houseplant food at 1/2 the recommended strength only when the plant is actively growing. Hope this information helps.
Judy

Judy:
Wonderful! Thank you very much! The top inch of the soil was moist so I was worried I had overwatered them, but when I repotted one I found that the soil at the bottom was bone dry. Placed both in water and within a half hour both perked up. I really appreciate this service you offer thru the app and the website.
Kelly

Hi Patty,
Your plant is definitely a member of the Chamaedorea genus of palms. There are about 107 species in this genus. I talk about the Chamaedorea elegans or Neanthe bella Palm and the Chamaedorea seifrizii or Bamboo Palm in the Browse section of the App. These are two of the most popular indoor palms of this genus. The fronds and multiple stem of your plant really make me think that it's a Bamboo Palm. It looks as though you took the plant out of its grower's pot and planted it in a decorative pot. Do you recall what the bottom of the stems looked like. Was there a tan bamboo covering?

Follow the care instructions under Bamboo Palm in the App. They should work well for your palm.Be careful not to over-water and keep an eye out for spider mites and mealy bugs.
Judy

Hi Amie,
Peace Lily is listed in the browse section of Houseplant411 along with how to care for it. The care for a white peace lily and a red peace lily is the same. The only difference is that the flowers, really "spaths" or modified leaves, are white on one and red on the other.

Most people who have trouble with houseplants are usually too kind too them and water them too often. There are very few plants that like to stay wet. The majority need to have at least the top 30-50% of their soil dry out before you water. Check your plants once a week. If the soil is not dry do not water. Wait until the next week and check them again. Plants can easily be revived when under- watered but quickly die from root rot when over- watered. Less water and less fertilizer is always best!

Please let me know if you have any other questions about your red peace lily or any other plant that seems to be having a problem. You can always send a picture if you can't quite describe it. My sincere condolences for the death in your family.
Judy

______________________________________________ 

Houseplant Care: Fungus on soil

May 17th, 2010

Dear Judy,
All the plants in our house now seem to have strange white spots on the soil (see photos attached) and the leaves of some of the plants are very visibly getting smaller and smaller. One of them, the poinsetta, looks almost unrecognisable now. The peace plants are going the same way....

A friend told me that this is an incurable disease and that we would need to get rid of all the plants to prevent other, new plants becoming infected.

Can you diagnose the problem and advise me as to the best course of action?

With kind regards,Anna

Hi Anna,
It looks like you have white mold, which is caused by a fungus, growing on the top of your soil. This is usually the result of over- watering and poor air circulation around your plants. I'm more concerned with the fact that the over- watering may have caused root rot and that is the reason your plants are looking so bad.

I'd suggest the following:
Try to get rid of as much of the soggy soil as possible and replace it with a loose quick draining potting soil. You can even add a little sand to make the soil lighter.
Allow the soil in your plants to thoroughly dry out before you even think about watering them again.
If you have a little fan, place it near your plants to increase the air circulation.
Don't mist your plants.
Move your plants to a warm dry location that gets bright light but no direct sun.
I don't think this is an "incurable disease" and you certainly shouldn't throw all of your plants out. Judy

Dear Judy,
Thank you so much for getting back to me with this diagnosis and advice. It makes so much sense! We live in a basement flat which has a damp problem in one of the bedrooms. I will take up your advice without delay. We have a dehumidifier which we could use more often. That will probably help....Very relieved that our plants don't have some nasty infectious disease and can be saved, and made well again.

With very best wishes, Anna

Hi Maytal.
It sounds like your plant is a fuchsia.See the picture above. Here are some care instructions. It's not the easiest plant to care for and probably does much better outside than inside; but the flowers are fantastic.

1. First fuchsias really need to be in a cool area. If the temperature goes above 65 degrees then they really need high humidity to compensate for it. Always protect it from direct sunlight.
2. Fuchsias like a great deal of water and a great deal of fertilizer. Feed weekly with an all purpose plant food when they are actively growing.
3. Spray fuchsias often to wash away whiteflies and spider mites and to increase the humidity.
4. Cut off fading flowers immediately so the seed pods they produce don't drain the strength of the plant.

Hope this information helps you. Judy

______________________________________________

Hi Brian,
Your plant is a Ti Plant, Cordyline terminalis. We'll have it listed in our new update in May. Poor color is usually the result of not enough light and too much fertilizer. Also, carefully look at the leaves and make sure there are no spider mites. Mites appear as almost a reddish haze especially on the backs of the leaves. These little pests can easily damage the beautiful color of a Ti plant. Fluoride in the water can also cause leaf damage.
Here are a few other care instructions:

Light: A Ti plant requires bright indirect light, but no direct sun.
Water: Proper watering is the most difficult part of taking care of a Ti Plant. The soil must always be moist but never soggy. The plant should never be allowed to dry out totally. Use bottled water if your regular water contains fluoride or chlorine.

Fertilizer: Feed a Ti plant every other week in the spring and summer with a liquid or slow release plant food. Use a fertilizer with a 3-1-2 ratio that does not contain fluoride.

Temperature: Ti plants can handle temperatures from 65 degrees-85 degrees, but keep them away from drafts and heating vents.

Humidity: High humidity keeps the beautiful leaves looking even better.

Soil: Loose, fast- draining, well aerated potting soil is essential for Ti plants.

Pests: Ti plants attract fungus gnats, mealy bugs, spider mites, scale, and thrips.

Diseases: Blight, a bacterial infection and leaf spot, a fungal infection can be a problem if the leaves are constantly wet. Be careful to keep water off of the leaves,

Propagation: Ti plants can be propagated by cane cuttings, stem cuttings, plant division, and, if the stalks are thick enough, air layering.

Clean Air Plant: A Ti plant cleans the air of formaldehyde, benzene, and trichloroethylene.
Judy

______________________________________________

Hi Deanna,
The way you describe the 2 ft. flower spikes makes me think that it is a form of sanseviera. The flowers of a tradescantia do not grow on spikes while sansevieras do produce flower spikes.I think your plant is a variety of sanseviera trifasciata Hahnii. This is a plant that thrives on neglect. The only way to kill it is by over watering. You are right, it doesn't like to be in the direct sun. The little pups are easy to separate to make new plants as gifts for your friends and family. Just look up sanseviera on the app, houseplant411, and all of the care instructions are listed.
Judy

______________________________________________

Hi Ian,
As dieffenbachias get taller they tend to lose their bottom leaves. They will also lose leaves in the way you described if the plant is over fertilized. When you feed the plant, be sure to use a water soluble food at 1/2 strength only when the plant is actively growing. Always pore the fertilizer evenly over the soil. Cutting back the top was a good idea. How far back did you cut it? You may have to be patient; the new leaves will take a while to appear.
Judy

______________________________________________

Judy:
Why is it that when you suggest a water mixture with soap, or alcohol, whatever, the amount of water to use is rarely given. Doesn't help much.
Candace

Hi Candace,
Sorry about the confusion but the ratios are quite variable and not really fixed.
The strength of the solution depends upon the severity of the problem or whether you are using it to prevent a possible problem.

In a large spray bottle (16 -24 oz):
1. You can use a mild solution to "prevent" infestations and keep your plant clean: 3/4 water, 1/4 alcohol. 4 or 5 squirts of liquid soap.
2. You can use a medium solution for just a few pests or minor infestation: 1/2 water, 1/2 alcohol, 4-5 squirts of liquid soap
3. A strong solution for a serious problem: 3/4 alcohol, 1/4 water, 4-5 squirts of soap
4. An extra strong solution, when none of the others work, would be spraying with straight alcohol.

Use these solutions only on leathery leafed plants not on furry leafed plants such as African Violets.
On palms only use the mild solution or you might discolor the fronds.
Judy

Judy: Thanks so much! This helps a lot. On the umbrella plant at my office, these really really tiny black bugs (and I mean so tiny you can't tell what it is) keep coming back on the underside of the leaves - they literally suck the life out of them, and the leaves turn brown at the worst spots. I've tried the soapy water solution, but hadn't heard about the alcohol. This has been going on for over a year now. They've never truly been eradicated. Candace

Hi Candace,
It sounds like spider mites though these usually have a slight reddiish tinge. Mites love the underside of an umbrella plant and damage the leaves just as you've described. Here are few things to try:

Keep the plant out of the sun
Increase the humidity around the plant. Mites like it dry so mist the leaves whenever you have a chance and keep the soil a little wetter
Spray the leaves with straight alcohol.
If nothing else works, buy a commercial miticide product.

______________________________________________

Plant Identifier: Probably a Wandering jew
Sent from my iPhone 4/15/2010

Hello Judy:
I came across your app while trying to find out (without luck) what type of plant I have so that I can help it get stronger.

I have attached a photo. The plant has small leaves (about an inch long) and when it was healthy had a slight pinkish/purple tinge to the leaves. It is cascading. I have had it about 2 years, and it has always been very healthy. We recently had some renovation work done and when checking up on the work found the builders had put all the plants on the balcony during a week of intense cold with snow and frost at night.

I would like to identify the plant so that I can keep it in it's ideal climate and hopefully also find out how best to take a cutting to try to keep it alive as I fear the pot it is in is now too big for how little if it is left. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Sascha

Hi Sascha.
My guess is that it's (what is left of) a green wandering jew. The leaf size and pinkish purple tinge tend to lead me to this conclusion, but it's a little hard to be certain from the picture you sent. This plant likes:

Light: Very bright
Water: Water well and then let the top 50% of the soil dry out before watering again
Humidity: basic household humidity
Temperature: 55-75 degrees
Fertilizer: Fertilize monthly when the plant is actively growing. Use a water soluble balanced food (10/10/10) at 1/2 strength.
Soil: Basic well aerated potting soil that drains quickly. You may have to add a little sand or perlite if it seems too heavy.
Propagation: The best way to propagate this plant is by stem cuttings. Be sure to dip the cut ends in rooting hormone and use at least six 3-4 inch cuttings per pot to ensure a bushy new plant.

You are certainly right to want to get it out of that big pot and into a smaller pot.Hope this helps you save your plant, Judy

______________________________________________ 

Plant Care: Fronds Drooping on Rhapis Palm
Sent 4/14/2010,

Hi, Judy!
I've had this Rhapis Palm Tree for two and a half years. It seems to do well. I've had to trim off some fronds a couple times over the last 30 months when it gets too bushy or too leggy. Never has been a problem.

I have noticed within the last several months or so that the fronds will start to droop a lot more often than ever, as they are doing in the attached pic. After I water it, however, the fronds perk back up and raise back up to a more upright position. Is this normal? I used to water this tree infrequently but now that the leaves are drooping more often, I add water to perk it up. I just don't want to overwater it by doing this! What are your thoughts on this and why would the fronds noticeably start drooping more and more frequently? Is it rootbound? Help!!

Thanks, Judy! All the best,Frank

PS: There are new shoots coming up on this tree; you can't see those in the pic, though, so I know the tree is growing and seemingly doing well.

Hi Frank,

What a beautiful rhapis palm and it seems quite healthy. It sounds as though your palm may be getting a little root-bound and may need a larger pot, but repotting is recommended only if a palm REALLY needs it.

How tall is your palm and what size pot is it in? Is it in a plastic or a ceramic pot? Are there more roots than soil in the pot?

Palms enjoy being root-bound and having their roots crowded together; so if you don't mind watering a little more frequently and the plant is still producing new leaves you could just leave it alone.

If it is in a plastic pot, the roots may even break through the pot and you'll have to put it into a larger container. In a ceramic pot, the roots will just keep growing until there are more roots than soil. If you do decide to move your rhapis to a larger pot select one that is only a little bigger than your current one so that the roots never stay too wet. Be careful not to disturb the roots by unwinding or accidentally breaking any off. Palm roots are very sensitive and the plant becomes severely stressed if its roots are damaged. Try to just lift the entire root ball intact and gently place into the new pot and add additional soil.

If you have a doubt whether it is time to repot, I would always err on keeping it in a smaller pot until you are absolutely certain.Let me know what you decide to do with your palm,
Judy

______________________________________________

Judy:
I just bought a washing dwarf orange tree, it looked beautiful when I bought it but within a month all the leaves fell off. I keep it inside next to the slider and it gets good light, the soil I used was a sandy/potting soil. Do you know why it is doing this? Is it dead?
Kevin

Hi Kevin: A citrus tree is a great plant for a warm sunny room in your home, and is usually pretty easy to care for. They do need at least 5-6 hours of sunlight every day and must be planted in a fast draining fertile soil. The hardest thing is watering properly. Are you keeping the soil wet or dry? Did you let it get too dry? If you over water in the winter months when the plant is not actively growing the plant gradually drops leaves and may develop root rot. If you don't water often enough or deeply enough so that the water reaches the roots, the plant may suddenly drop all of its leaves. The water requirements of a Washington dwarf orange vary greatly from season to season which often causes overwatering in the fall and winter and under-watering in the spring and summer. If you correct the watering problems, the orange tree should get new leaves and look good in no time. Judy

Judy:What's wrong with my queen palms? The tips are turning brown and the leaves are missing on some of the sides.
Thx , Cole

Hi Cole
Sorry you are having problems with your palms. A couple of quick questions:

Are you sure that this is a Queen Palm and not a Majesty Palm?

How tall are the palms and how old ?

Could you tell me its location (it appears to be outside/ in a pot/ or planted in the ground)? Where do you live?

From the picture, it looks like the tips are turning a grayish color rather than brown. Is this correct?

If you could answer these questions I could give you a much more accurate response.
Judy

Judy: The're 7-9 ft. No idea of age. One is inside with lots of light in a pot and 2 outside in a pot . Store said they were queen but not sure. Tips are brown. We're in Austin TX.
Thx Cole

Hi Cole,
I'm pretty sure that given their height (queen palms are much taller) and the fact that they are in pots, that you have majesty palms, ravena rivularis, not queen palms. I have to admit that Majesty Palms are not my favorite plants. They are a challenge to take care of and are not very forgiving. These palms, do extremely well in rain forests & swamps or outdoors in places like Florida not too well in Texas. Indoors they often struggle to survive and rarely do as well as a Bamboo, Neanthe bella, Kentia, or Rhaphis Palm. Majesty Palms are large inexpensive plants that look good for a while but often quickly decline no matter what you do. Here are a few care instructions:

Light: A Majesty Palm needs very bright indirect light at all times. The fronds may turn yellow in adequate light. If outside, do not place it in the direct sun.
Water: The soil needs to be consistently moist but not soggy. Never let a Majesty Palm sit in water.
Temperature: Majesty Palms do well in temperatures from 45-85 degrees. Try to keep this palm away from cold drafts or heating vents.
Humidity: High humidity is a definite plus.
Pests: Spider mites absolutely love this plant! Spray the fronds with warm soapy water frequently to keep the mites away. If spider mites do appear, use neem oil rather than the green solution to treat them.
Fertilizer: A Majesty Palm requires a great deal of fertilizer or the fronds turn yellow. Feed the plant every two weeks with a balanced houseplant food at ½ strength.
Soil: Use a rich soil that drains well. If using a basic houseplant mix be sure to add about 25% of sand to it.

Leaf tippage can be caused by many things:
Not enough humidity
Insufficient magnesium in the fertilizer
Too much water/not enough water
Direct sun
Or simply because it's a majesty palm and it's not the greatest potted plant

Cole:
Trim the tips with a wet scissors and give your palms lots of light, water (soil should be wet but never soggy), fertilizer, and humidity. Don't get discouraged if it doesn't do well. It's probably the plant not you. Thanks for purchasing Houseplant 411.
Judy

______________________________________________

Hi Judy,
I was wondering if you could help me with my Yucca? I bought it about 5 months ago and until recently it has been doing really well. I have been watering it maybe once a week or slightly less, and it has been standing in a shady corner on the landing.

I recently noticed that a lot of its leaves on the upper part have been drying out and dying. I watered it some more, to no avail. I then gave it, and my other house plant (a dragon tree) some multi-purpose plant feed and while the dragon tree seems to love it (has brightened up considerably and seems stronger, more vibrant and with more body), the Yucca does not seem to be responding. I have also moved the Yucca from its shady corner to the bright living room where it gets loads of sunlight, but so far without any effect.

Is there anything else I can do? It seems such a shame to watch it die and the leaves on top really do seem to be gradually all dying out (it actually looks even worse now than the picture I'm attaching to this mail, more leaves have died). Please help if you can!
Thank-you very much in advance, Freya

Hi Freya,
Sorry to see your yucca looking so bad. The problem is that that you have slowly over watered it and many of the roots are damaged. Leave it in the brightest possible light you have available and DON'T WATER IT FOR AT LEAST A MONTH. After that time, carefully take it out of its pot and be sure the soil at the very bottom of the pot is totally dry. If not dry, wait another week and check again. Do not water your yucca again until the soil it completely dry. Take off the dying leaves, be patient, and the plant should recover in a month or so. On another note, never fertilize a plant that isn't actively growing and producing new leaves.
Judy

 ___________________________________________________